Morse

Morse
Morse & friend

Wednesday, 24 October 2018

Scotland Autumn Dispatch - Wednesday, 24th October 2018





You missed out on hearing about our trip from Pitlochry to Leith as I ran out of time last Sunday, and I do think it is worth mentioning. We were sad to leave, of course, and promised ourselves we will be back to our favourite spot in Scotland very soon.

We had woken early to watch the Caulfield Cup, thanks to racing.com & a very exciting race it was indeed! We can’t seem to have any bets here, which will be frustrating come Melbourne Cup time, but that is a small price to pay for a great trip full of wonderful experiences.

On our way we saw a sign to The Hermitage and turned in to find out what it was. How delightful to find ourselves in the car-park of a pleasure grounds, run by the National Trust of Scotland (as National Trust Australia members we were entitled to free parking!). We spent an hour wandering around this beautiful spot, which was frequented by poets & writers in years gone by.


Wes enjoying the water & Autumn leaves

Our next stop was Dundee to see the new Victoria & Albert, which is a stunning building right next to the beautifully restored Discovery. However, we were underwhelmed when we entered as there is no crowd control except for queues to pay for exhibitions or queues to get into exhibitions. The rest of it is a mish-mash of cafe, lift, shop, toilets & sight-seers all getting in each other’s way.


We left there & walked around the city of Dundee instead looking for a cuppa, which we finally found in a quiet little muffin spot.

We arrived in late afternoon at our accommodation in Leith. This was an airBNB unit & we were able to stretch out at last after being confined to small rooms. We had views of the water, two bedrooms, a laundry, a fully-appointed kitchen, lounge & a large dining table on which the laptop sat happily. That night we enjoyed the goodies we had bought at The House of Bruar that morning.

Sunday was a fun day. We set off at 10.30am to catch the bus into Edinburgh where we had booked a tour called Secret Food of Edinburgh. This was hosted by a young female comedian, who took us on a three hour plus journey around the city with stops for Cullen Skink, haggis, whisky & tablet, fudge, cheese and tea & cakes. Each place was expecting us & had a table for 10 ready & waiting. It was most enjoyable and we had some good chats with the other 8 participants.

Afterwards we walked to the Queen’s Gallery at the end of the Royal Mile, but it was the final day of an exhibition of Venetian paintings & the queues were long, so we found the Playhouse Theatre instead & collected our tickets for the show Some Guys Have all the Luck, which purported to be the story of Rod Stewart’s life. I’m glad we had a couple of drinks beforehand as I was underwhelmed from the minute it started. I found the chap playing Rod lacking in charisma, stage movement & a good voice. I was in the minority; the rest of the audience & Wes thought he was excellent. I felt he was at his best when he stopped singing & let the audience take over the numbers. We felt as though we were at a rock concert, with mostly 60-70 age group up dancing in their seats or the aisles.


Wes walking across Pitlochry golf course on our way to the Black Spout & enjoying his decadent hot chocolate

On Monday, we set off to walk the Water of Leith trail into Edinburgh, which we enjoyed doing last time we were here, only in reverse. Sadly there were road-works in a few spots & we had to keep leaving the track, which meant we missed out on the beautiful Dean cemetery & St Bernard’s Well. However, we found our way to the Edinburgh Portrait Gallery, where we had a hot drink before tackling the wonderful exhibitions.

There was a stunning main display by Victoria Crowe, a woman with magnificent insights into her subjects & every painting was worth spending time over. This is my favourite. He is the well-known celebrated man & she, the vivacious wife, is about to checkmate him.

We spent ages exploring at this Gallery until our heads were spinning & we decided to have lunch at a little café called The Square, which served freshly made sandwiches & soups & had a French flavour to it. Good choice.


I forgave them ‘Tuseday’ when I discovered they filled hot water bottles for the homeless!

We walked back to Leith, mostly along the water, and rested for a couple of hours before putting on glad rags & walking 50 metres to our local pub, Teuchters Landing, for a drink & meal. We were overwhelmed by the size of our dinners and were unable to finish them.


Salt & pepper calamari with a kilo of thick cut chips & fish & chips with peas!

On Tuesday, we explored Leith by foot – in spite of a very strong wind. The weather was very good for our time in Scotland, a bit of rain, but nothing to worry about & quite warm temperatures, mostly around 15-17˚during the day. After a coffee break at an Italian café called Toast, we set off to drive to the historic town of Berwick on Tweed. We were totally underwhelmed by this town with its air of neglect & abandon. Lunch was at a brand new café called Café Nine, which had opened the day before. Mine host was panicking & his partner, Alan, refused to come out of the kitchen to help. We had soup & bread, which were very yummy & I took these photos to help us remember the occasion!


                                                                                                  
                   Wes is smiling as he has just realised that a book on Scotland won’t contain any info on Berwick on Tweed & we couldn’t believe the blackboard specials – misspelling & errant apostrophes dominated the menu as well!

Back home we decided to watch the wonderful film Sunshine on Leith, which our hosts had left for their guests, and after about 30 minutes of trying to make the DVD player work we were successful. Dinner was finishing up our bottle of claret, cheeses, biscuits, olives & mackerel. Very yummy indeed!

Now we are packing up and saying goodbye to Scotland until next time. Our destination is Robin Hood’s Bay, via Whitby. And tomorrow we spend the day with much-loved aunt & uncle, Jeff & Kev Hoolihan.

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